Porsche vs. Ralph Lauren: The Danger of Diluting Brand Equity

Fortune reports this week on the contrasting situations at two iconic brands: Ralph Lauren and Porsche. At Ralph Lauren, revenues and margins are rising. CEO Patrice Louvet has executed a sustained campaign to "elevate" the brand.  Louvet rightfully came to be concerned that the company's growth strategy came with significant brand equity risks.  He recognized that the company needed to act forcefully to raise willingness to pay.    Fortune's Peter Vanham writes:

Before he arrived in 2017, Ralph Lauren “expanded in places where we probably shouldn’t have, which drove higher levels of promotional activity,” Louvet told me. “It was like the boiled frog phenomenon. I’m sure it was well-intended. Each year, we thought it was just marginal. But after a few years, you realize it’s not going to end well.”

Since then, he said, “we’ve had our eyes wide open on tough choices.” Joining Ralph Lauren after almost three decades at P&G, the native Frenchman took a page from his old employer’s turnaround book. To escape from the price race to the bottom, the company “took a one-year, painful hit” to reset consumer expectations. Then, during COVID, Louvet reset the distribution strategy, and closed two thirds of its wholesale presence.

Meanwhile, Fortune's Christiaan Hetzner reports on the recent challenges at Porsche. Hetzner writes that the Porsche CEO, Oliver Blume, has announced a second major round of cost reductions at the luxury automaker. Hetzner concludes that the company is "drifting deeper and deeper into its biggest crisis in decades."  Blume apparently attributes the troubles to a slowdown in EV demand, a tough price war in China, and the high new tariffs imposed by President Trump.  While these factors clearly have affected Porsche's business, I wonder if the troubles point to a deeper strategic challenge. Over the past two decades, Porsche has expanded beyond being the producer of its iconic super premium sports cars.  Porsche sells sedans and SUVs around the world.  Has that growth begun to impact the brand, and can the company continue to command the high willingness to pay that it generated in the past?  Will Porsche require the type of brand reset executed by Ralph Lauren?  

Will Rao's Thrive After Acquisition by Campbell's?

This week, Campbell's announced the $2.7 billion acquisition of Sovos Brands, a firm whose most famous and successful brand is Rao's.  If you aren't familiar with the brand, you should be.  It's simply the very best tomato sauce sold in the United States, and frankly, there shouldn't even be a moment of debate.  I should know.  As the son of Italian immigrants, I grew up never eating tomato sauce from a jar. We had a huge vegetable garden, and my parents grew tomatoes and made their own sauce. Still today, I grow my own tomatoes and store sauce for the winter, though I don't jar enough to last the entire year. When I have to purchase sauce, there's only one brand that I will purchase in a jar - Rao's marinara sauce. As a fan of the brand, I'm hardly alone. Ben Cohen of the Wall Street Journal writes, "Rao’s deliciousness is undeniable. Bon Appétit magazine called it “the best jarred pasta sauce there ever was.” When the Washington Post convened a panel of taste-testers, the judges tried a dozen brands and declared Rao’s their favorite."   Rao's is hardly a bargain though.  It's a premium brand.  A 32 ounce jar of Rao's currently sells for $10.29 at Stop & Shop.  You can purchase a 24 ounce jar of Ragu for $1.99.   Now you might think that I'm crazy to pay that kind of a premium for tomato sauce, but you would be wrong.  It's absolutely worth it! 

The Campbell's acquisition may be beneficial, but it understandably generates some concern.  Campbell's is known for selling a very affordable line of soups.  How will the premium brand Rao's fare within the Campbell's portfolio?  The company's track record of acquisitions is decidedly mixed.  In the late 1960s, it acquired Godiva's chocolates.  That brand thrived under Campbell's ownership for many years, but ultimately, the company divested Godiva because it didn't fit very well with the other products in the portfolio.  More recently, the company divested Bolthouse Farms at a steep discount to the price they had acquired the brand for just seven years earlier.  

The question remains whether valuable synergies exist between Campbell's and Rao's.  Why are these firms more valuable together than apart?  Can Campbell's manage the brand more successfully than it has already been managed?  That seems unlikely, given the parent company's lack of recent familiarity and success with super premium brands.  Moreover, they aren't buying a brand in distress; they are purchasing a brand that is already performing at a very high level.

Any attempt to drive synergies must be taken with caution as it may dilute the quality of the premium tomato sauce brand. For now, Campbell's has assured customers and investors that it won't change the taste and quality of the popular tomato sauce. Still,  we should expect some pressure to justify the acquisition premium by creating synergies.  That pressure can be counterproductive at times when mainstream companies acquire much more premium brands.  

Katrina Markoff and Vosges Haut-Chocolat

Katrina Markoff made Fortune's list of 40 under 40 this year (just announced this week).  Markoff is the founder of Vosges Haut-Chocolat.  Markoff creates exotic truffles using fine ingrediennts which she personally from around the world.   She developed her skills at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, where she began to create her unique chocolates, which involve infusions of rare spices and flowers combined with premium chocolate.

Her growth exploded when she began selling her chocolates at Neiman Marcus.  She also has grown her catalog business substantially and operates eight boutique retail locations of her own. 

According to Fortune, Markoff now has agreed to develop a lower-priced line of chocolates for Target and Wal-Mart. Naturally, she follows a long list of designers who have gone this route, creating popular lines at affordable prices ("affordable luxury" if you will).   The move always comes with some risk though.  How does one manage the brand so as not to dilute it?  Beyond that, though, "designers" such as Markoff have to think about how they manage their retailer relationships.  How does one continue to please Neiman Marcus and maintain that strong relationship, while selling lower-priced items at Target and Wal-Mart?  To thrive, designers have to create products of clearly different quality and positioning for the different retailers.  They must really understand the differences in the consumer at each retailer to do that effectively.   Some cannibalization always will occur, but a designer can avoid that if they continue to innovate and first bring exciting new products to their high-end luxury retailers.  Without that "reward", they risk damaging the relationships with those retailers who first helped them build their brand.  They also have to think carefully about WHICH mass merchandisers with which to partner.  Some would question whether it makes sense, for instance, to sell to both Wal-Mart and Target, given Vosques' positioning. 

Reasserting your Brand

Author and consultant Nick Tasler has a good article on Business Week's website regarding how firms can reassert their brand after a rocky period.   He uses Starbucks' turnaround recently to illustrate his points.  Starbucks realized it had strayed from its coffee roots and diluted its brand equity.   It had to clarify the brand's positioning.  Starbucks did so by trying to reassert itself as the "coffee authority."  Tasler argues that firms must take three steps to reassert their brand.


1. Decide what your equivalent is to being “the coffee authority.”   What do you want to be known for in the market?  For what do you want to be known as a leader?

2. Decide what you should start doing more of to reassert your authority.  What innovations can you bring to market to burnish your reputation as a leader in a particular market space?   Where should you invest to rebuild your competitive advantage? 

3. Decide what you should stop doing in order to reassert your authority.   What activities should you stop doing because they dilute your brand, distract management attention, and make you far too similar to other players in the market?